Accompanying music: Hey You ~ Pink Floyd
Among a sea of residential buildings in Ipoh's Buntong suburbs, a greying structure of Sungai Pari Towers stands tall, somberly dominating the surrounding horizon. Completed around six decades ago, the main high-rise apartment was the tallest building in North Malaya and a proud architectural marvel of its time. Years after its abandonment, the residential complex is now reduced to a massive haunt of decaying concrete and social delinquents - a far cry from its former prestige.
Sungai Pari Towers main tower as seen near Persiaran Kidd, Buntong.
Our visit to this complex was an unplanned detour during another unrelated program in Ipoh. While driving through Jalan Tun Abdul Razak, we immediately caught the sight of a heavily dilapidated apartment building standing out like a giant sore thumb in the middle of a large residential area. Amidst this, we could also see the excellent expression of Modernist design on the buildings. While not as intricate as the typical colonial buildings in the city, these structures nevertheless reflect an important era in Ipoh's development history.
Many buildings in Buntong (particularly the ones located in the old section beside Jalan Tun Perak) are from the colonial era.
Sungai Pari Tower's location from Ipoh City Center.
Ipoh's Town Planning and Public Housing
A proper approach to town planning for Ipoh was found increasingly necessary in the early 1900s following Kinta Valley's tin mining boom. Under the British Colonial Administration, the so-called 'Plan B3' in 1931 outlined the very basic layout of the town, which was then incorporated and expanded in the years ahead under the Ipoh Town Board. By the time the Federation of Malaya was established in 1957, Ipoh was undergoing changes and pressures similar to other flouring towns in the peninsular. To address a swelling population of the poor, the Town Board introduced early forms of public housing through several prototype projects, starting with the landed houses of Sungei Rokam and Anderson Road flats.
When the town received its municipality status in 1962, the board was replaced with the Ipoh Municipal Council (IMC). The new local authority was headed by the first elected Council President Sri Padhmaraja Seenivasagam (S.P. Seeni) - a champion of Ipoh's underprivileged and poor. Under his leadership, the council continued on the planned and ongoing public housing projects, starting with the Waller Court flats (completed in 1962), followed by Sungai / Sungei Pari Towers (completed in 1966), and Star Park terrace houses (progressive completion estimated between 1962 - 1966).
View from across SMK Sungai Pari football field.
First skyscraper in Perak
The proposal of a low cost 'neighborhood unit' near Sungai Pari is thought to be the brainchild of David Allan Aitken. Replacing the Town Planning Officer Frank Watkinson in 1959, D.A. Aitken served under Town Council Chairman E.G. Waller, and later continued on serving in the role as the Municipal Town Planning and Development Officer under IMC. Together with Municipal Engineer Edwin B. Carlos, Aitken came up with the scheme and layout for the first high-rise towers in Ipoh in 1961. Their initial plan was housing 500 families through building three blocks of 10-storey flats, and later included building up to 20-storeys high, working up a total estimated cost of $2.88 million. This was despite the existing by-laws in Ipoh stipulating heavy conditions on building over four storeys high in the town.
The central tower was an architectural marvel during the 1960s, as most buildings in the state capital were only 4-storeys high.
By 1962, this residential complex proposal was changed to a 9 acre project made up of a single 15-storey main tower flat and five interlinked 4-storey blocks flanking the building on each side. Based on this reduced scale, IMC received financing from the Federal Government through a $2.5 million 40-year loan as part of a national housing initiative. Along with this, the Perak State Government provided the land for the project (originally a dhobi reserve on the banks of Sungai Pari), service mains and a token fund of $93,000.
Sungai Pari Towers under construction in 1965. The project includes 408 rental lots, made up of residential flats and shop units.
(Source: The Straits Times, 5/3/1965 - Edited by Author for clarity)
The project included 388 flats of 2, 3 and 4 rooms with built-up rates of between 365 - 654 square feet, 20 ground-level shop lots, playground, recreation spaces, and other amenities. Its foundation stone was ceremoniously laid on 5th November 1963 by Minister of the Interior Dato Dr. Ismail Dato Abdul Rahman, and construction was subsequently executed by main contractor Low Nai Brothers from Kuala Lumpur. Following full completion and moving in of residents by the end of 1965, the official launch of Sungei Pari Towers was carried out on 5th February 1966 by Minister of Local Government and Housing Khaw Kai Boh and IMC President S.P. Seenivasagam.
Sungai Pari Towers project, newly completed in 1966. During launch, the rental was capped at $55 per month.
(Source: Left Photo - The Straits Times, 5/2/1966 - Edited by Author for clarity)
(Source: Right Photo - Low Nai Brothers Advert, 5/2/1966 - Edited by Author for clarity)
Described as "one of the most ambitious projects undertaken by a municipal council" by S.P. Seeni at the time of its launch, Sungei Pari Towers was lauded as a showpiece development by the authorities in Ipoh. Adding to the pride, the project's completion coincided with the first year of Rancangan Malaysia Pertama (1966 - 1970), a national economic development plan that placed the welfare of low income groups in the center stage. At a time when skyscrapers were still a novelty, the project's main tower boasted as being the tallest building not just in Perak but in all of North Malaysia. Equally impressive, the project went on to hold this title in the state until the completion of Ipoh's Kinta Heights nearly twenty years later.
Sungai Pari Towers today.
Sungai Pari Towers layout.
Low-rise blocks on the opposite side of the main tower. At the time of its completion, Ipoh's population was well over 200,000.
Left photo: Plaques of the foundation stone and project launch.
Right photo: Sealed shafts of the main tower, originally fitted with Sabiem elevators.
Modern Architecture
The design of the Sungai Pari Towers complex was no less remarkable than its famous height. The drawings were finalized by architects from the Housing Trust from Kuala Lumpur, while project's structural engineer was Steen Sehested & Partners, the same consultant involved in the construction of Subang's Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport (1965). The result was an impressive expression of optimism that was sweeping the sentiment in newly independent Malaysia.
The design of the main tower was remarkable, especially for a low cost housing scheme.
The general design direction of buildings in Malaysia in the mid-1900s was mainly inspired the Modernist architectural movement, which originally spread from France to the whole Europe, and later to the rest of the world. Riding on this wave, new public buildings in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Ipoh quickly moved from Neoclassical to Modernism, adapting and integrating local climate and cultural characteristics along the way.
Sleek Modernist facade of the flats in Sungai Pari Towers project.
For Sungai Pari Towers, the central building appears to be made (roughly) in the residential block typology known as Unité d'habitation. Conceived by the Franco-Swiss architect La Corbusier, this urban development concept was first introduced through the completion of Marseille's Cité Radieuse in 1952. As governments were struggling to build as cheap and fast as they could during the post-war period, La Corbusier's self-contained and modular tower block was a revolutionary solution in addressing the housing issues being faced. Furthermore, the principal use of structural concrete instead of steel framing ensures that the provision of housing for the public was minimally impacted by the fluctuating supply of steel. In due course, Unité d'habitation became widely referenced and adopted in many variations, thus shaping how residential towers were built in the 20th century.
Modular homes designed to fit local climate conditions.
Concurring with Unité d'habitation, the multi-storeyed residential units here were designed to be uniform, modular, and devoid of ornaments. The practical use of brise-soleil (in the form of hollow blocks or bricks) on stairwells and balconies can be seen on all blocks without exception, allowing for ventilation and natural lighting - as well as providing minimal aesthetic patterns for the otherwise plain façade. In addition, communal living was weaved into the layout of the blocks and amenities. The low-rise blocks are interlinked together with open spaces in between, and the shop lots in the main tower allows (theoretically) for a self-sustaining community in the development.
(Foreground) One of the low rise flats with covered pathways linking to other blocks.
(Background) Kledang Range.
Pilotis or piers on the main tower's Ground Floor. The use of this fixture is one of the hallmarks of Le Corubusier's design philosophy.
Beyond typology and functionalities, the designers of the Sungai Pari Towers put a lot of thought in expressing other Corbusian-Modernist elements onto the project as well.
The most striking component can be seen on the main tower block. Standing 15-storeys high (excluding the covered rooftop area), the tower boasts a large partial-shell concrete 'dish' that frames its very distinct roof. The bottom part of this rafter slopes from one side to another, and supported by two row of columns on each side, creating the illusion of a large floating canopy. At the center of the block lies a concrete structure for the elevator, which ends in the shape of a circular shaft protruding through the dish above. Together, these two features create the unique form of the main tower that could be distinguished from miles away.
The central building of the Sungai Pari Towers complex. The weathered paint and plaster almost makes the building appear Brutalist.
View of the project from the bridge over Sungai Pari.
La Corbusier designed tower blocks reminiscent of ocean liners and their smokestack, a nod to the Machine Age of the 1920s.
When viewing the main tower from below, the rounded edges of the rooftop dish might bring to mind famous Corbusian works, such as the sculptural Notre Dame du Haut, or the curved roof forms of the Palace of Assembly and Secretariat Building in Chandigarh. Besides the structural features, Corbusier's influence on Sungai Pari Towers can be seen through artistic elements sprinkled throughout the development; a Geometric-Expressionist sculpture on the main courtyard, the shape of concrete benches and even the playground amenities.
Rusted remains of Sungai Pari Towers' abstract sculpture.
From a familiar neighborhood to total abandonment
Since 1965, a diverse and close-knit community grew around Sungai Pari Towers, with some even living through multiple family generations in its flats. Much like many buildings of its time, the tower's 'ugly' appearance in the middle of Ipoh's colonial-style panorama drew some ire throughout the decades. Yet for many who called the place home, the development and all of its imperfections was looked upon with endearing nostalgia.
Rubble on what was once a playground area.
In spite of all this, the upkeep of the development fell short in the later years. Majlis Bandaraya Ipoh (replacing IMC in 1988) was in charge of the towers as well as other housing projects in the city, among them being Kinta Heights Public Housing, Rumah Pangsa Jalan Silang, Rumah Pangsa Taman Harmoni and Buntong Permai, Jalan Bijih Timah Public Housing, and Waller Court. Due to financial constraints, maintenance issues creeped onto the development, leading to droves of residents moving out in the late 90s until the 2010s. Gradually, the project eventually fell into disrepair.
Finally in 2017, the Council declared the development as unsafe and a hotspot for dengue, urging residents to move to the nearby Buntong Harmoni flats. In the same year, the last batch of 43 families moved out, leaving the project totally abandoned.
Some parts of the buildings seem to be waiting to collapse.
Now dubbed by many as 'the most haunted apartment in Ipoh', the development's darker history takes precedence, such as its very real notoriety as a spot for suicides. Amplified through rumors and urban legend, the unsightly condition of the abandoned tower and flats turned them a source of disdain for residents of the nearby housing areas. Wasting away in the elements, the complex is now blotted by rotting paint and plaster, its lawns and corridors overgrown with wild shrubs and trees. Making matters even worse, the ungated area is now a dangerous den of drug addicts and other shady activities - all in broad daylight.
What's left of a barbershop in the main tower.
The idea of redeveloping Sungai Pari Towers was indeed floated by the government and authorities. For instance, the Ipoh City Council mooted this initiative several times since 2013. It's potential to be refreshed into a new Perumahan Mampu Milik (PMM) scheme and it's exceptional architectural heritage value was also expressed in PLAN Malaysia's 2021 Ipoh town planning report. By 2022, the land was handed over to Perak Housing and Property Board (LPPH) in anticipation of further action. In the mean time, the surrounding communities further pressed for repurposing of the complex into a hub of social services and public facilities.
With so much conversation in the past decade, meaningful action has yet to be taken, and Sungai Pari Towers remains as a 'brownfield' development until today.
A makeshift blockade on the main road into the development. Shelters for motorbikes and cars are long gone, presumably stripped for scrap metal.
Waller Court (Left) and Kinta Heights (Right), two of Ipoh's old public housing projects.
Legacy in danger
The general indifference for 'buildings not yet loved' has led to many valuable icons from the 20th century being either demolished, stripped bare, or modified beyond recognition. In the international scene, a notorious example was the much-regretted treatment of Le Corbusier's public architectural and interior design work in Punjab's capital city. Unaware of the value of the items at hand, the public authorities and passionate groups in India could only watch in dismay as the purchased items - mostly bought at bargain prices - being handsomely auctioned off in Europe.
On the other end of the spectrum, the global movement on preserving Modernist works has shown some promising momentum. Aside from private initiatives by organizations such as Docomomo International and Getty Conservation Institute, governments around the world has also shown interest in conserving important architectural works from the recent century. In Malaysia, this push has led to the gazette of multiple Modernist buildings as important monuments of heritage, including the Parliament Building, National Mosque, and Universiti Malaya's Dewan Tunku Canselor.
A concrete bench hidden by thick bushes in the tower's main courtyard.
Unfortunately, the same can't be said about the Sungai Pari Towers. Looking at the current condition of the flats, it's quite difficult to imagine that this was the same complex once hailed as a majestic structure, a pride of Ipoh. For the few who still see it's historical value, the towers represent a transition of Ipoh into the modern age and a unique product of its time. Even by today's standards, the construction of low cost housing schemes in Malaysia rarely (if ever) display similar depth of enthusiasm for a specific school of design.
For now, Sungai Pari Towers seems to be at a junction; to be demolished and rebuilt, preserved and repurposed, or simply left to completely rot away. Without public support, the building can be forgotten to a point of no return, and a valuable legacy of Malaysia's post-Merdeka era will be forever lost.
Sungai Pari in the foreground with exposed limestone.
Author's Caution:
At the time of this post, the abandoned area contains dangerous hazards; overgrown courtyards, open manholes, crumbling structures, and sharp objects. The site is also frequented by potentially-dangerous individuals and drug addicts. Any site visit is extremely discouraged.
Notes:
*Currency: $ Malaya and British Borneo dollar
*Suicide cases in Sungai Pari Towers
Between 1965 and 1972 alone, at least 14 fatal jumps were reported on the main tower block. The frequency was alarming enough that the Council decided to install a mesh on the rooftop in 1973 to curb similar incidents.
Referenecs/Further Reading:
Official opening, project details, architectural design, and structural consultant: Minister opens $2.5mil. flats - Symbol of the Ipoh Municipality's co-operation with government (Special Writer, 5/2/1966) - The Straits Times
Project opening speech by Ipoh Municipal Council President: Seeni on importance of low cost housing (5/2/1966) - The Straits Times
Foundation stone laying ceremony: Co-operation (5/11/1963) - The Straits Times
The need for town planning in Ipoh in the early 1900s: Ipoh and Town Planning: Lines of future expansion (28/4/1914) - Pinang Gazette and Straits Chronicle
Public housing development history in Ipoh: Beyond the Tin Mines: Coolies, Squatters and New Villagers in the Kinta Valley, Malaysia, c.1880-1980 (Francis Loh Kok Wah, 1988) - East Asian Historical Monographs
Early 1960s low cost housing projects in Ipoh: Dr. Ismail: Tasek Scheme ‘ideally situated’ (8/11/1961) - The Straits Budget
Ipoh achieves municipality status: Ipoh is now municipality (31/5/1962) - The Straits Times
Federal loan for Sungai Pari Towers: Ipoh MC is rapped for not getting approval for big loan (30/9/1964) - The Straits Budget
La Corbusier, Brutalism, and Unité d'habitation: The New Brutalism (Reyner Banham, 1966) - Reinhold Publishing Corporation
MBI role in public housing: Affordability Measurement among Public Housing Tenants In Ipoh, Malaysia (Nor Aini Salleh, Nor’Aini Yusof, Noraini Johari & Nurul Anis Ahmad, 2018) - International Journal of Academic Research in Business & Social Sciences
History of Modern Architecture in Malaysia: Nation Building and Modern Architecture in Malaysia (Nor Hayati Hussain, 2017) - Docomomo
Ipoh town planning history: Sejarah Pengarah - PLAN Malaysia (Perak)
Town planning history of Malaysia: 100-Year Town Planning Story (2021) - PLAN Malaysia
Need for low cost public housing in Ipoh: Rumah pangsa Sungai Pari di-buka oleh Menteri Khaw (6/2/1966) - Berita Harian
Story of SP Seenivasagam: SP: The much misunderstood politician (Andrew Lin, 29/12/2010) - Aliran
Original plan for Sungai Pari Towers: Ipoh meluluskan $40 juta projek lima tahun-nya (4/7/1961) - Berita Harian
Amended plan for Sungai Pari Towers: Ipoh gets loan to build flats for 500 families (18/5/1962) - The Straits Times
Plan modification and architects involved: 'Towers' to be Ipoh's tallest building (26/12/1962) - The Straits Budget
By-laws of Ipoh buildings and the need to build high rise buildings: Councillor: A 'sinful' waste of land in Ipoh (19/8/1964) - The Straits Times
History of high rise apartments in Malaysia: The Evolution Of High-Rise Apartments (14/3/2024) - Star Property
Sungai Pari Towers architectural features: Ada Perancis di Buntong? (Ahmad Shaufiq, 2020) - Brewsterpost
Modern evolution of architecture in Malaysia: Classification of Malaysian Architecture Revisited (Julaihi Wahid, Azli Abdullah, Basseem Salleh & Mohd. Arar, 2021) - Jurnal RUAS
Death due to fall: Wanita mati jatoh dari bangunan (1/7/1967) - Berita Harian
Five deaths due to fall as of 1969: Woman in 9-storey death fall (12/6/1969) - The Straits Times
Effort to curb suicide cases: Mesh stops suicide (13/12/1980) - The Straits Times
Steen Sehested & Partners Subang Airport involvement: Malaysian Identity: An Architectural Paradox? (Ahmad Nizam Radzi, 12/2016) - Architecture Malaysia, Vol 28
Drug haunt: Decaying homes now drug haunt (Manjit Kaur, 25/10/2022) - The Star
MBI maintenance of low-cost flats in Ipoh: Tenants of council flats urged to keep premises clean (1/11/2014) - New Straits Times
Ipoh city planning and Sungai Pari Towers: Draf Rancangan Tempatan Bandaraya Ipoh 2035 (Penggantian) (2021) - PLAN Malaysia
Modernism heritage in danger: Le Corbusier's Indian masterpiece Chandigarh is stripped for parts (Jason Burke, 2011) - The Guardian
Conservation of Modern Architecture: Conservation Perspectives: Conserving Modern Architecture (2013) - The Getty Conservation Institute
Sungai Pari Towers as Modernist heritage: New exhibition in KL and Penang pays tribute to controversial Modernist architect Le Corbusier (Diana Khoo, 21/6/2022) - Options
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